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1971 FORD 3000 TRACTOR

Engine Work

[Image Tractor Shed]

The 3000 was supposed to take over most of the chores, but has not gotten much use since I bought it. The engine has just been making too much noise for me to get comfortable working it very hard or very much. As seen in this photo the 2N and 8N have continued to be my workers. The solution is to pull the 3000 apart, figure out what it needs, and either fix it right or part it out.

It took a few weekends to clear a spot in the shed to do engine work. The V8 project is nearly ready for a test drive. The only thing holding that up has been the weather, downed trees, internet, phone problems.... The laundry list of things that need work or fixin' just keeps getting longer.

[Image Ready to Start Work]
[Image Ready to Start Work]

The 3000 is now parked at the shed. It will be supported under the tranny with a jack stand and backup floor jack. Both rear tires are chocked front and back, so it can't roll anywhere. The hood, cowl, radiator, and front axle have to come off before the doors will close on the shed.

Every nut, bolt, and screw on this thing is being a royal pain. Both radius rod bolts were frozen where they went thru the axle. The bolts holding the outer axles to the center were not much easier to work with. All of the hardware on this tractor is at least an order of magnitude larger than anything on the N-Tractors. The el-cheapo 3/4" drive socket set is getting lots of use, and making me wish I'd bought the good stuff.

The radiator mounts with two captive crown bolts just like the N-Tractors. Unfortunately, just like the N-Tractors, these were thoroughly corroded, and just started spinning in the radiator. They did loosen just enough to get a sawsall blade in there to cut them off. Going to need some new hardware and rubber pads for the radiator.

Another bad surprise. The radiator looks perfect from the front. It should, I spent about an hour cleaning and straightening fins when I got this tractor. The back has a deep circle where a fan blade cut into it. Most likely a failed water pump at some point in the past. Someone tried to solder the cut radiator tubes. I've never seen that work very well. This one has been leaking. Add radiator re-core or new radiator to the shopping list.

[Image Front Axle Support]

The front axle support looks very similar to the same part on the N-tractors, just a lot heavier. It is attached to the engine with four very large bolts. These were not rusty at all, but must have been tightened to about a million foot pounds. All of the bolts on this tractor are just laughing at my 1/2" drive impact wrench. Even at 110 psi it falls way short of having enough torque to break this stuff loose. A 3-foot piece of pipe on a breaker bar should have worked, but just completely destroyed my 3/4" drive, 6-point, 1-1/8" socket. I've occasionally managed to crack smaller sockets, this one literally exploded.

Plan "B" was not looking good. The only other 1-1/8" socket in my box was the old Craftsman 12-point, 1/2" drive that was being used to hold the bolt when the other socket broke. The neighbor came over to see what I was up to. He had a 1-1/8" box end wrench that should work ok to hold the bolt. After breaking a 3/4" drive socket, I expected the smaller 12-point socket would split or just take the corners off the hex nut. Just to prove me wrong, all four nuts came loose without breaking any more tools. The axle pivot bushing is loose, and it looks like a spacer is missing. The front axle will need to be rebuilt before putting everything back together. A certain amount of mission creep is expected. Breaking one socket is all the excuse needed to replace that piece of junk 3/4" drive set with better quality tools.

The engine should have been on the stand by now. At least removing the axle was enough to allow the shop doors to close until next weekend.

[Image Stripping Engine Accessories]

It may appear that there are only a few things left before engine can be removed. Those few things took more time and trouble than expected. The fuel lines on this tractor are a nightmare. Tank to fuel pump wraps around everything. Fuel pump to fuel filter under the carb apparently has to be installed as the manifold is bolted on. In order to prevent damage, I always remove carb and fuel lines. In this case it was necessary to remove the intake manifold before the fuel line would come out.

Small bolts that support the rear hood and fuel tank from the battery tray have loose nuts on the back. Fishing a 1/2" wrench in there to hold those nuts was fun, and will be even more fun to install them. Bet I can come up with captive hardware to make that easier. The valve cover had to come off to get one of the bolts out. The larger bolts that secure the battery tray to the engine were even worse. My tractor does not have anything like the hydraulic manifold described in the service manual. The best option is to remove the four bolts that attach the hydraulic pump to the engine. Once loose the hydraulic pump can be pulled up and tied out of the way with some wire. This allows just enough flex in the hydraulic lines to barely allow a socket to get on the two top bolts attaching the engine to the transmission. For some obscure reason, these are a larger size socket than the hardware used for the other four engine-to-transmission fasteners.

Time to get the engine lift in place and supporting the engine weight. As the engine-to-transmission bolts come loose, check several times that the engine weight is supported. Move engine forward about 1/2" to release the dowel pins that align the engine and transmission. Make sure engine-to-transmission bolts are still loose and will come out with just fingers. I kept the longest bolts in place as dowels to make sure the clutch came straight-off the transmission input shaft without binding. Getting them apart is not nearly as hard as meshing those splines on the way back together. The dowels I made for the smaller engines and the V8 are not even close to the size needed to guide this engine back on.

Once the engine was loose, dragging the engine crane up the apron and into the shop was no fun. I may decide to rig a trailer wheel on the tractor and shove it into the garage when it's time to put the engine back on. Maybe I should have shoved the V8-8N outside and used the whole shop for this overhaul? Maybe I should finish a project before starting another?

[Image Stripping Engine Accessories]

Oh well, the engine is off, in the shop, and the doors can be closed. Getting this on the engine stand is going to be the next challenge. The double-clutch assembly has to come off. The shop manual mentions several special tools that I could not even find decent pictures of. Browsing the various forums on-line I was able to verify that the clutch release levers can be tied or blocked down. Then the clutch assembly can be unbolted. As long as the assembly does not need to be serviced, all I will need is a pilot alignment tool to reassemble the clutch on the flywheel. I doubt if any pilot tool in my shop will fit. That will be another challenge.

Problem: The 5/8" hardware needed to bolt this engine to the stand will fit thru the brackets on my engine stand (barely), and I do have four 5/8" Grade 5 bolts the correct length. However, the engine bolt spacing is about 1/2" wider than the brackets on my stand will reach. Bummer. My other engine stand is much lighter, but the engine hardware is made to exactly the same dimensions. These are probably guaranteed to fit virtually any car engine. This stand supported the flathead V8 with no trouble, so it will certainly work for this "small" 3 cylinder. The engine plate will have to be altered, or maybe different brackets are available. More research is needed.

To Be Continued


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