2 - Engine Driven Hydraulic Pump

There are many ways an external, engine-driven hydraulic pump could be mounted on these tractors. Tractors with loaders will often already have a front pump driven directly off the crank pulley. Most (if not all) of those loader pumps mount in front of the axle, and require removing the grill or worse (chopping a big hole in the grill). Things like hacking a hole in a vintage grill really bug me. Properly-engineered accessories should bolt-on without doing permanent damage.

PUMP BRACKETS

Before making a bracket find the pump you want to use. Smaller pumps are much easier to fit. The original system flows less than 2GPM, and really cannot handle much more than that without a much more complicated system to divert the extra flow. A 2GPM pump is also about the largest that can be run with a V-belt. The pumps I've been using are small 4-bolt type 4F17. Two-bolt SAE AA pumps are similar size and may be easier to find. These are some of the brackets I designed and built from scratch. Parts can be cut from scrap or cut on a water jet by a machine shop.

This is a welded 3-piece bracket mounted on my 2N front-distributor engine. The original type 9N lower radiator hose will not work. The late 8N type molded lower radiator hose has to be used, so the belt can come out at an angle to go around the new pump pulley. Look closely how the belt comes off the crank pulley to the new hydraulic pump pulley. Make sure your belt does not rub the casting where it comes off the crank pulley. If the belt rubs, the edge of the lower housing will have to be ground to provide clearance. Test fits are very important. Make sure everything fits before doing final welding. Using a small pulley for the new pump minimizes the chance of the belt rubbing, causes less problems with belt clearance near the crank pulley, reduces the chance of belt slippage at the water pump pulley, but going too small can spin the pump faster than it is rated for. Engineering is nearly always a compromise. It is much harder to get everything to work right on the front distributor engines.

The "universal" parts for this bracket were designed using a late 8N block and aftermarket cylinder head. This test fit on my 2N block showed that the serial number pad on this engine is located further forward, and is proud of the surface. We could use spacers between the head and bracket to gain some clearance. The best solution was to simply cut off the extra hole in the universal bracket.

The pump shaft is long enough to provide plenty of adjustment to align the pulleys. Another detail on the front distributor engine is the oil filler tube. The tube needs to be turned slightly to the rear, just enough to clear the back of the pump. The oil filler tube is press-fit in the engine. It's not too hard to turn it in the hole. A piece of scrap wood slipped inside the tube will help move it without damage. Turning the pump in the bracket, so the hoses connect top and bottom, with the body of the pump offset away from the engine, works much better.

This belt is a twist link type. I thought it would help figure out what length belt I really need. Each link adds about an inch. Looks like a 50" to 54" belt will be right for this setup.

Here are my drawings for several versions of do-it-yourself pump brackets:

Go to next chapter 3-Shopping List.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
CHAPTER	DESCRIPTION
1	Top of This Page
2	Engine Driven Pump
3	Shopping List
4	Hose Routing
5	Problems and Options