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STEP-BY-STEP - 2013 CAMRY FRONT DISK BRAKES

We avoid running youtube videos on our home wifi. Videos quickly chew up a lot of bandwidth and don't run well on a 4g wifi out in the country. On a good day we might occasionally get 3g speed. Usual speed is much lower, so this step-by-step will be with photos.

Before getting started, put the new brake rotors and pads back in the plastic, or find some place where they will remain clean. We don't want new brakes getting contaminated with greasy, dirty fingers.

STEP ONE - REMOVE WHEEL AND TIRE

That can be a challenge. This car has stamped steel wheels. They fit very snug on the hubs, and can be a chore to break loose. The trick that works for me is to use the weight of the car. Loosen all 5 lugs just enough to see a gap between the taper and the wheel. Just a crack, not enough to expose any threads. Now rock the car side to side until you hear a POP!
The rim has started to move. Go ahead and jack the car up until the tire is just slightly off the ground. Do not remove the tire until the car is sitting on something more stable than any jack. That is true on a solid surface, and even more important on an old overgrown gravel driveway where this job was done. Put a jack stand under the car for safety. If you are not working on a solid surface use jack stands with a solid base that won't sink into the ground. I'm using wood timbers. An assortment of 4x4s and 6x4s is good to have handy. Do not use bricks or cinder blocks. They can crumble with no warning. It's ok to leave the jack under there, just make sure most of the weight is on a sturdy support. Once the car is safely supported, run the lug nuts off, and remove the wheel and tire.

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TIP

Notice anything about these wrenches?

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The ones that are turned box end facing me are the wrenches that were just used to do the brakes on the other side.

STEP TWO - REMOVE CALIPER

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Hang a bungee cord from something handy, like the spring. This will be used to support the caliper while removing the support bracket and brake disc. A piece of heavy wire or cord will also work for this.

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Remove the two bolts that are holding the caliper to the bracket. These bolts are threaded into the pins that allow the caliper to stay centered on the rotor. The bolts may spin right out, or the pins may start spinning. There is a hex head or at least two flats that can be used to hold the pins. Be careful not to mess up the rubber boots.

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Once the bolts are removed, the caliper slides right off. On this car the brake pads stay in the bracket that wraps around the rotor. On some cars the pads come off with the caliper.

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Hang the caliper from the bungee or other support. Don't let it dangle with just the brake hose holding it.

STEP THREE - REMOVE BRAKE SHOES

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The brake shoes come out by tilting the outer edge out and the rest follows. Reinstall that pad and remove again. Remember how this works. The new brake shoes will be installed the same way.

STEP FOUR - REMOVE BRACKET

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Very similar to removing the caliper, remove two bolts that hold the bracket to the hub. Then remove the bracket.

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STEP FIVE - REMOVE ROTOR

The rotor is now free to come off the hub. The book says it will pull right off. Most of the ones I've seen are practically welded to the hub by rust. If a few whacks with a rubber mallet don't knock it loose, there are two threaded holes in the face of the rotor.

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Find two metric bolts that fit these threads. Turn them 1/2 turn at a time alternating each bolt. You should hear it pop. Keep turning the bolts until the rotor comes off.

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Save the bolts with your brake tools. Maybe you won't have to spend time looking for them on the next brake job you get talked into doing.

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STEP SIX - CLEAN AND SERVICE BRAKE HARDWARE

Clean the bracket that came off. No need to go overboard unless you are planning a fancy paint job. The important things are to make sure all the clips that support the brake pads are in good shape. If any parts are broken or missing, kits are available to replace these clips. Then make sure the two boots are in good shape, and the pins are fee to slide in the bores.

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Carefully release each pin from the boot and pull out as shown here. Clean and apply brake lube to the pins and boots. It's best to leave the outside of the boots dry. Lubricant will just collect brake dust and dirt.

STEP SEVEN - COMPRESS CALIPER PISTON(S)

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Use a special tool like this one, or a big "C" clamp to run the piston back into the bore. This is necessary to make room for new pad thickness. Don't force anything! The piston should slowly and easily go back into the bore. Make sure the rubber boot around the piston goes back neatly and does not get pinched and torn. Some cars use more than one piston, the technique is the same.

STEP EIGHT - CLEAN-UP

No, this isn't out of sequence. Time to clean up. Thoroughly clean the hub area where the new brake rotors will rest. Use a wire brush, scraper, etc. to remove rust and dirt from hub face where new rotors will be. This area must be completely clean and smooth. Then wash hands and clean the area before handling new brake pads and rotors. Don't get greasy, dirty fingerprints all over new brake parts.

STEP NINE - REINSTALL BRACKET

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Reinstall the bracket on the hub. Notice that I've twisted three lug nuts on the studs to keep the rotor in place. This isn't strictly required, but it's easier to install everything if the rotor isn't flopping around. Install both bolts hand-tight. Then snug them down in stages alternating back and forth. Make sure the bracket is located properly.

STEP TEN - INSTALL NEW BRAKE PADS

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Next fit the new brake pads in place, reversing the method used to remove the old pads. This is what was practiced when removing the old pads. The new pads are thicker and can be more trouble than the old ones were. On some vehicles the pads are installed on the caliper, rather than being captured by the bracket on this Toyota.

STEP ELEVEN - REINSTALL CALIPER

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With the piston pushed back in the bore, the caliper should easily slip over the new brake pads. Install the two bolts finger tight, and start tightening them. If you did a good job loosening and lubricating the pins, they will probably start turning before the bolts are fully tight. A second wrench will likely be needed to hold the pins while the bolts are tightened.

STEP TWELVE - REINSTALL WHEEL AND TIRE

Tighten lug nuts in stages using the correct alternating pattern, so the brake rotors and rims are tightened evenly to the correct torque. Do this wrong and the rotors could be warped before the car is driven for the first time.

DONE!

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Most people are done and ready for a test drive. In my case, working with brain cells more than 50 years old, it is a good idea to double-check for things like bungee cords left hanging from the spring. Once satisfied that the car and work area has been cured of any brain farts, it's time for a test drive. Start the car and pump the brake pedal a few times to move the pistons back out to the pads. Make sure the brake pedal is good before releasing the parking brake and driving thru the garden, or back wall of the garage.

The new brake pads should have come with instructions for proper break-in or "bedding" of the pads. The pads I just used for this job actually have an abrasive coating to help them properly mate with the rotors. Follow the instructions provided. Expect something like 100 miles of easy use, then a final bedding-in that will consist of several hard stops from around 60 MPH (obviously not something you want to be doing in traffic).

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