For all N-Series Tractors
Alvin's Corner–This page includes additional sketches, photos, description and diagrams. Most of this content was provided by Mr. Alvin Whaley, Dalton GA.
Alvin has access to some high-end metalworking tools, and has made some fine brackets and miscellaneous hardware. Most of us can only drool with envy, but perhaps a few fortunate souls can make use of these images and diagrams.
on June 14, 2010 Alvin wrote, "Kevin, This email is in reponse to your remarks, 3–Remove the guts from the original square-can coil and bring the leads out to connect to a more reliable round-can coil. After frying two coils on my 49 8N, I decided to give it a try, works just fine as shown in these pictures."
The spark plug could be moved to the side or top to get more fan clearance. After cleaning out the coil cans I lucked out and still had the wire for the points spring still attached, I just spliced with a wire long enough to extend about 2" higher than the top of coil can with a eyelet on the end.
Put spark plug in lathe and removed all metal only leaving porcelain. Broke away part covering the electrode. Soldered a wire with eyelet on end. Drilled out rivet holding hi tension bracket to bottom of coil. This left a hole just right for a 6-32 screw thru bracket, thru bottom of coil, thru wire eyelet and nut on inside to make connection and hold every thing together. Drilled hole for a tight fit of spark plug to prevent leaking when filled with black 2-part polyurethane potting material. Only takes about 15 minutes to set up.
Milled a .5" releif on under side of top, center of existing post, drilled a hole thru post that removed the threaded stud on top side. Installed a 10-32 machine screw from bottom side thru wire eyelet and up thru hole in original brass insert still captured in top cover and placed a nut on top side, reinstalled cork gasket and screws to hold top in place, appears as original except for spark plug.
The next pic shows the round can coil mounted on the left side:
The next two drawings are for the alternator brackets machined from 1" thick aluminum flat bar on a Bridgeport CNC mill:
And a 2" alternator pulley:
The next drawing is a clear plastic 1/4" plate with machine screws threaded in from rear to connect all wires for alternator. This mounts where the voltage regulator was removed. This makes for a neat installation as you dont have to cut or splice any wires, just install original wires and add another nut.
It is possible to make usable alternator brackets with much less sophisticated metalworking equipment. I have a set that was made using a pair of tin snips and a drill! These are not the most durable or beautiful brackets I've ever seen, but they did work.
Quite a few people have solved the weak front mount coil issue by making an adapter plate or modifying an old coil so the front mount distributor will accept connections to a remote round can coil. Few look as good as the one pictured above. KL
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